Grape Juice

Tasting Notes: Two Levels of 2005 Cline Zinfandel

Posted on 25. Mar, 2008 by Erin in Tasting

My nerves almost certainly stem from the cheerful presentation of this poor varietal as a ‘bash-her-over-the-head-and-drag-her-home-by-her-hair” caveman profile that it’s often given. It lacks finesse some say; it lacks individuality, cry others; it’s too high in alcohol and over extracted, scream the bandwagoneers.

No matter how many good Zinfandels I guzzle, I always approach the variety a might bit like one would approach a rattlesnake after having been bitten on a previous outing: with extreme trepidation. The best of them show a sense refined power, like Jean Claude van Damme meditating quietly while flexing his sweat-sheened biceps, while the worst of them come off like Chuck Norris on some kind of amphetamine-induced rampage. How could one little grape go so right, or so wrong, so easily?

Here’s hoping that Cline managed to corral the beast from the 2005 vintage, because I was about to taste two of them in rapid succession.

Tasting Note: Cline Cellars — 2005 Zinfandel

Country: United States
Region: Contra Costa County, California
Producer: Cline Cellars
Price: $13.40(CDN)

Visit the winery!

A good value from Cline, albeit less complex than the Ancient Vines version. Oak spice, brooding cherry and candied fruit highlight a rather relaxed nose. Conversely, the palate is a no muss no fuss parade, snapping quickly into order with dried berries, black pepper and a somewhat medicinal feel overall. Certainly not a wham-bam-thank-you-ma’am, but perhaps a little bit fast and loose for my liking. Perfectly palatable, but why not dish out only five bucks more for a real winner (below)?

Erin’s Rating: I’d Hit It

Tasting Note: Cline Cellars — 2005 Ancient Vines Zinfandel

Country: United States
Region: Contra Costa County, California
Producer: Cline Cellars
Price: $18.95(CDN)

Visit the winery!

What a curiosity! Don’t expect a big, medicinal monster here, but rather bask in the complexity that century old vines can offer. Pleasantly volatile, with lifted floral notes, spice, mocha and a hint of something bizarrely reminiscent of…wait for it…teriyaki sauce. This is one zin that wears its 14.5% alcohol with style that compliments the nutty earthiness and ripe red fruit profile. There’s a little bit of everything going on with this wine, but it manages to pull off a sophistication rather than a cluttered sense of disorganization. Tremendous value and a different take for folks who normally shy away from this varietal.

Erin’s Rating: Repeat Offender